How to forge an Arrowhead

To forge an Arrowhead.

There are several ways to forge an arrowhead, this is a method that works for me. Apart from an anvil, preffeably one whith a 1/4" radiused egde, I use one 0,5 kg hammer and one "arrowhead special" with a bit more pointed peen than usual and with a slightly rounded face.

This example shows how to forge an arrowhead from 10 mm round bar. Start by flattening the bar slightly. The next step is to peen the section that will form the socket. To fit a 3/8" shaft the base need to be about 30 mm wide, and as even as possible. Finish this step with the flat of the hammer to get rid of all peenmarks.

The next step is to shape the socket. Work with a rounded hammer over the bick. Do most of the work where the arrow shows. If you keep an even heat most of the socket will follow by itself. Try to keep the slit straight. If the socket turns out xxx, it is probably a result of uneven heat. The piece will chill of quickly so you have to work fast.

After the socket is finished you just cut it off at the hardie. Beginners usually cut it off far to long. Now forge at point, start by forming a square section. At this stage you will have a traditional crossbow arrowhead.... ...or continue to lengthen it if you want a bodkin. In that case you have to finish by altering the section from square to rhombic.

If you want a leaf shaped arrowhead the next step is to change the square section to round, i.e. forging eight corners then sixteen etc... Finally the tricky part, forge the actual point by flattening the cone. Basically the same technique as when forging a any double edged blade. Start by flattening the cone over the rounded edge (see arrow) and then work your way towards the tip. Use the same amount of blows on each side to keep the piece straight.

It is essential to work from both sides to obtain an arrowhead that's straight and balanced.


This example shows how to forge an arrowhead from 10 mm round bar. Start by flattening the bar slightly.	The next step is to peen the section that will form the socket.	To fit a 3/8" shaft the base need to be about 30 mm wide, and as even as possible. Finish this step with the flat of the hammer to get rid of all peenmarks.

The next step is to shape the socket. Work with a rounded hammer over the bick. Do most of the work where the arrow shows.	If you keep an even heat most of the socket will follow by itself. Try to keep the slit straight.	If the socket turns out xxx, it is probably a result of uneven heat. The piece will chill of quickly so you have to work fast.

After the socket is finished you just cut it off at the hardie. Beginners usually cut it off far to long.	Now forge at point, start by forming a square section. At this stage you will have a traditional crossbow arrowhead....	...or continue to lengthen it if you want a bodkin. In that case you have to finish by altering the section from square to rhombic.

If you want a leaf shaped arrowhead the next step is to change the square section to round, i.e. forging eight corners then sixteen etc...	Finally the tricky part, forge the actual point by flattening the cone. Basically the same technique as when forging a any double edged blade.	Start by flattening the cone over the rounded edge (see arrow) and then work your way towards the tip. Use the same amount of blows on each side to keep the piece straight.
	It is essential to work from both sides to obtain an arrowhead that's straight and balanced.